Snapdragons are unique flowers that you can make into little dragons that snap (hence their name). They’re cheerful, come in lots of colours, and are super useful in arrangements.
My first experience growing snapdragons was when I was a newish mom. I decided to try them out and grabbed a few packs from my local garden centre.
Despite my best intentions, those snapdragons sat on my deck “hardening off” for months. An embarrassing amount of time later, I plopped them into the ground—stunted and rootbound as they were—and hoped for the best.
A few months later, the first frost came and went. I figured everything in my garden was dead, but to my surprise, the snapdragons were perfectly fine! They even survived a few more small frosts. This discovery led me down a rabbit hole of learning about “cool flowers”—hardy blooms that thrive in colder temperatures—and eventually inspired me to write a book about growing them in a cold climate.
Today, snapdragons are a core crop on my flower farm. I love their bright, cheerful colours and how they make every bouquet shine. I’ve even learned how to grow them so I have blooms throughout the entire season—not just for a few short weeks in July!
If you’re new to growing snapdragons, let’s start with the basics! They’re a fantastic cut-and-come-again flower, meaning they’ll keep producing if you harvest them correctly. This blog post will cover everything you need to know to grow these resilient, beautiful flowers in a short season.
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Understanding Snapdragon Groups in a Short Season
Cut flower production snapdragons are categorized into four groups (1, 2, 3, and 4) based on their bloom time and how well they perform under different light conditions, day lengths, and temperatures.
- Group 1 snapdragons typically bloom the earliest and are considered the most reliable in low light and cool temperatures.
- Groups 2 and 3 snapdragons bloom slightly later and are better suited to moderate light and temperatures.
- Group 4 snapdragons bloom the latest and are best suited to high-light intensity and temperatures.
In Zone 5 and warmer, this system generally works as expected. However, in my northern latitude (Zone 3), things don’t seem to follow the same pattern. Likely due to our longer daylight hours in summer, the traditional grouping doesn’t hold up.
Despite what you’d expect, Group 1 snapdragons are actually the weakest performers in my experience. Instead, the Madame Butterfly and Potomac varieties seem to be where it’s at. It’s important to note that these groupings are not indications of frost tolerance or cold hardiness! If you want a more in depth description of snapdragon groups, check out Johnny’s Selected Seeds.
How to Grow Snapdragons from Seed
Snapdragons are easy annuals to start from seed. They’re typically sown indoors 8–10 weeks before your last frost date and usually germinate within 7–14 days—but don’t give up hope until day 21! Their seeds are extremely tiny, but no special tricks are needed to get them going, making them a great choice for beginners.
I recommend starting more than you think you’ll need because once you see them blooming in your garden, you will never be able to have enough!
If you want to grow snapdragons in containers, here’s what you need to know!
If you’re growing snapdragons for cut flowers, avoid short varieties. Most snapdragons sold at local nurseries are shorter types, but occasionally, you’ll find long-stemmed varieties like Madame Butterfly or Rocket.
If you want to grow a long-stemmed variety in a pot, stick to one plant per 12-inch pot for the best results.
However, if you’re just growing snapdragons for enjoyment on your deck, there’s no need to start from seed or search for long varieties—simply pick up a few nursery-grown plants from your local greenhouse!
Seed Saving Snapdragons
Early in my snapdragon-growing journey, I thought it would be a great idea to save some money and collect seeds from the beautiful snaps I had just grown. I waited for the pods to dry out, saved the seeds, and started them the next season. Everything seemed to be going so well—so well, in fact, that I even shared some of my saved seeds with friends!
Then they bloomed.
I kept waiting for them to develop that signature spiky shape, but it never happened. Instead of tall, pointed blooms, I got round, globe-like clusters of snapdragon-shaped things. Which, in a sense, wasn’t the worst, because they were actually quite easy to arrange with. But if I’d been selling to florists? It would have been a total disaster!
That’s when I took a closer look at the original seed packet from the year before and realized my mistake: they were hybrids, not heirlooms.
I was mortified when my friends’ flowers bloomed, and they also ended up with these weird monstrosities in their gardens!
Lesson learned: If you’re going to save snapdragon seeds, make sure they’re from heirloom varieties!
Frequently Asked Questions about Growing Snapdragons
How hardy are snapdragons?
Snapdragons are not perennials in Zone 3, and in my cold climate, they don’t self-seed. They might in warmer regions, but I’m not sure. Sometimes, if you leave snapdragon plants in the ground over winter, you’ll notice that when the snow melts in spring, they look green at first, leading you to think, “Oh, maybe they will live!”
They never live. Trust me. Maybe for a day or two, but they won’t actually grow back.
One of the best things about snapdragons is their ability to handle cold better than most flowers. All varieties seem equally hardy, and they grow well in both sandy and clay soil. As seedlings, they can tolerate temperatures as low as -5°C (23°F) with cover, and as full-sized plants, they can survive down to -10°C (14°F). They also do well in warm weather, making them incredibly versatile.
If you want more in-depth information, check out my guide to growing frost-proof flowers here!
Where is the best place to plant snapdragons?
Full sun is best, although they can tolerate part shade if necessary. If you do plant in part shade, don’t expect as prolific of blooms.
How can you keep snapdragons blooming?
Snapdragons are cut-and-come-again. You’ll usually get two flushes, and that’s it. If you have nice, thick stems on the first flush, don’t expect the same thickness of stems on the second flush. The second flush is always thinner.
How far apart should you plant snapdragons?
About six inches is fine. In warmer climates, it’s probably more like nine.
Do snapdragons need to be pinched?
You can pinch back snapdragons, but it isn’t necessary. That being said, doing so can significantly increase your yield! By pinching, you can potentially triple the number of blooms you grow. Each pinch encourages the plant to produce two new stems, and you can also replant the portion you pinched off to create even more blooms. (I did this last year and was really happy with the results!) This technique helps keep your snapdragons thriving!
What are the best snapdragon varieties?
My favourite varieties are Madame Butterfly (specifically the peach and white shades) because they are delightfully frilly. I also love the Potomac Bronze and Potomac Lavender Potomac. The Potomac Appleblossom is pretty good, too, though not quite as good of a grower in my cutting garden. This year, I’m trying out Double Frappe Light Pink, which is new to me, so hopefully, it will become a new favourite.
If you don’t know what you like, I always recommend getting a mix just for the first year and figuring out your preferences from there.
If you liked this blog post, find me on Facebook, TikTok, and Instagram for more cold-climate vegetable gardening tips, delicious recipes, and cut flower goodness! I also make weekly videos over on my YouTube channel. I hope to see you there!
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